hidden europe 70

Saint-Gingolph

by hidden europe

Picture above: La Morge, seen here looking upstream, marks the border between Switzerland (left) and France (right) at Saint-Gingolph (photo © hidden europe).

Summary

Why would I eat lunch on the Swiss side when a well-cooked plate of perch from Lake Geneva costs so much less in France? We visit Saint-Gingolph, a lakeshore village divided by an international frontier.

Were it not for La Morge, Saint-Gingolph would not exist. La Morge is a mountain stream which plunges down from the Chablais hills, cutting a deep valley. The river has deposited a great alluvial cone on the south shore of Lake Geneva, giving space for a small community straddling both sides of La Morge. It’s a fine setting with views across the lake to the Swiss town of Vevey and the Lavaux Vineyards. But it’s risky as from time to time, after great storms over Chablais, La Morge swells into a foaming torrent bringing a cascade of mud and rocks down into Saint-Gingolph.

“That’s what happened back in 2015,” says a gentleman taking a morning glass of wine at the Café de la Navigation. He moves outside, still holding his wine glass, and points out areas which were devastated by the floods that spring day eight years ago. “There was debris everywhere here, plus over there in Switzerland,” he adds.

‘Over there in Switzerland’ is just a few steps away, for the streambed of La Morge marks the frontier between two countries: France’s Haute- Savoie département on the left bank and Switzerland’s Canton du Valais on the right bank.

Related blog post

Coffee in Trieste: the joy of railway stations

Paul Scraton reflects on the appeal of railway stations as places to linger. Stop for a coffee and reflect on past travels and future journeys. They are more than merely a place to change trains or buy a ticket.

Related articleFull text online

The Hills of Western Serbia

There are many visions of Yugoslavia's past. Laurence Mitchell visits the hills of western Serbia to learn how heritage and history fuel the imagination. It's a journey that starts and ends in Uzice and takes in the famous Sargan Eight narrow-gauge railway.

Related articleFull text online

Into the hills: a Bohemian diversion

Of course one can speed across Europe on sleek, fast trains. But slow trains, the kind that dawdle along branch lines, are so much more interesting. We ride a rural rail route in northern Bohemia, where fading railway stations reveal a Habsburg history. Join us on the slow train to Dolni Poustevna.